The next day Theresa wanted to climb more mountains. Instead we tramped into Llanberis again and passed out on bean-bag chairs after a full Welsh breakfast at Pete's Eats (I highly recommend their black pudding and the turquoise bean bag).
We woke up and ate some more (I also highly recommend their chocolate cake) and consulted the map. Once we had pinpointed "a green looking area with waterfalls" we jumped on a bus bound to Betws-y-Coed and camped (slightly illegally) at an RV park that night. All legalities were solved in the morning. Not gonna lie - sometimes it pays to be an innocent looking girl. Don't know if it's a fair trade off with being able to pee standing up, but ya can't have it all.
Hiked up to Swallow Falls in Betws-y-Coed. Ate more wild blackberries. Ruined some scenic photos for tourists (how were we to know our sunbathing was blocking the view? It's not like we were lying directly on top of the waterfall... oh wait) Ate more sardines and paté (one of the many benefits of hiking in areas with no carnivorous predators) and that was that.
On to Ogwen Valley -my favorite campground by far. We set up tent on a hill away from the other travelers and it felt like we had the place to ourselves. We also had a fire right, which was convenient considering our fuel depleted halfway through our noodle dish. Weather was gorgeous when we showed up but quickly deteriorated the next day. We planned to hike all the way to Tryfan via Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach but after picking our way carefully up the first peak (we could hardly see cairn to cairn in the fog and the ascent was all scree) we couldn't see any sign of the trail at the top. We sat cold, wet and huddled in a small outcropping rationing a pasty while contemplating life, love, and lousy compasses. We decided to turn back, and though feeling glum and defeated we soon met other hikers that had similar difficulties in the fog. Made some friends on the descent and found our way back to the warden station were we loaded up on hot chocolate. Spent the rest of the day trying to warm up in our sleeping bags. Thankfully the sun came out enough to partially dry some of our clothes before bed.
Back to Conwy the next morning. Ate another Welsh breakfast and hiked along the seashore. Dinner of fresh mussels and wine near the harbor. Serenaded by the Once soundtrack from a nearby sailboat (owned by a juggler with dreadlocks- we should have been friends).
Wales, Wales, Wales. Someday we'll meet again methinks.